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The Whale’s Gift

Some call them blackfish or killer whales. Old salts still refer to them as grampus. They are playful, highly vocal and, for 10-ton carnivores, are rarely aggresive. I heard the orca long before seeing them. On the flat waters of British Columbia, sound skims along like a stone. You can hear a blow miles away. …

The Few, the Proud and the Wet: Alaska’s Kayak Rangers

Maybe this isn’t such a good idea,” I thought nervously as I wedged my paddle between two ottoman–sized icebergs. They were translucent–blue and among the smallest bergs jammed against my kayak–the largest was toward the bow and was more sofa-sized, to complete the living-room set. Ice and fiberglass scraped together as I drove my paddle …

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